Varietal - the Spice of Hive

* This article first appeared in the September 2022 issue of Bee Culture Magazine. *

“Too many bee-keepers fail to realize that the selling of a crop is fully as important as its production. The business part of bee-keeping has been sadly neglected. No set rule can be given as to how a man shall dispose of his crop, but it does seem like very poor business management to send away a crop of honey to some commission merchant, and then sit around all winter when good wages might be made selling honey direct to consumers, or to retail dealers.”

W.Z. Hutchinson

Advanced Bee Culture (1905)

One of the more fruitful approaches that we have taken with our honey production is offering varietals. Since our farm employs only myself and wife Ella, we must obtain the highest return on investment (ROI) possible to compensate for the long, hot days spent in the outyards in addition to the toll that all of the heavy lifting takes on our backs. Many of you are likely in a similar situation, launching your beekeeping enterprise while still working an off-farm job, and paying for your startup with revenue generated from the latter. Since the first several years of any agricultural enterprise typically operates in the red, as you scrape together the funds to purchase equipment and supplies, you are likely not in a position to take on a crew of workers. Although it is more labor intensive, the demand for varietal honey is most certainly there and commands a premium price. Saaaawwweeeeeett right?

Varietal is a term that is typically found within the wine trade and refers to a wine comprised of a single, known grape variety. As it pertains to honey production, varietal can refer to the specific location where the honey was harvested from or if harvested from a predominantly seeded agricultural area where the producer is certain of the crop being grown, can refer to the plant nectar that the honey is comprised of. To complicate that matter further, the same plant nectars can differ annually by region depending upon the areas’ temperatures and rainfall amount.

For us, varietal pertains to our apiary locations and the seasons in which it is harvested. Since each location is in a different region with their own variety of “wild” plants growing seasonally, we cannot decisively identify all of the floral sources that our bees visit and hoard within their hives. This variety of plant nectars result in a subtle nuance of colors and unique flavors in the honeys that we harvest from our different beeyards. The additional effort that is needed to offer varietal honey doesn’t just stop with the seasonal collection of supers from multiple apiaries, but also extends throughout the process of extraction and jarring. The harvested supers are stored, extracted, and jarred separately by location and season. Over the years, we have come to expect certain types of honey from certain apiaries and our customers will often request specific varietals based upon the season and apiary location.

The Proof Is in the Honey

Some of you might have lost interest as soon as I mentioned performing multiple harvests per season, but it is quite rewarding when you do a side-by-side comparison and tasting of the finished product. Additionally, you get to revel in all of the positive feedback that your customers voluntarily shower you with. Growing up in a household that never purchased honey, I was surprised by the volume of positive feedback that we received immediately after we began offering our honey for sale. When lifelong connoisseurs of the sweet nectar started weighing in, stating things like “your honey is pure ambrosia”, it was clear that we must be doing something right, as the majority of all the other commercially available honey is highly adulterated, consisting of non-descript colors and flavors that consumers have grown accustomed to. When you offer a genuine, raw and minimally processed product, folks take notice to its quality and are obliged to shell out more for your craft.

The distinct colors, viscosity, flavors, and aroma of varietal honeys all come down to where our bees forage. In the United States, there are over three hundred different types of honey that originate from different floral sources. Some varietals even smell of the floral source to which they derived from. Their color spectrums can range from nearly clear to a dark brown, and flavors can vary from delectably mild to distinctively bold. As a general rule, the lighter-colored a honey is the milder in flavor it will be. As you approach the darker-colored varietals, you will start to notice a more robust zest on the tongue.

Honey is commercially produced in every state, with certain types of honey deriving from specific floral sources that only grow in certain regions. Clover honey, the most widely harvested varietal in the US, has a pleasing, mild taste and varies in color from nearly clear to amber depending upon the source of clover. Wildflower honey, another common varietal, is a broad term describing honey from miscellaneous and undefined floral sources. Some of the other widespread floral sources that comprise the bulk of the honey crop harvested during the spring and summer months are hard maples, numerous fruit trees and shrubs, dandelions, basswood, buckwheat, and alfalfa. Fall flows are not guaranteed and when they do occur, are highly prized by the beekeeper as they help to lessen the burden of fall feeding. During bumper years, however, the industrious beekeeper can reap one last harvest of her crop which results in a distinct honey deriving from our native aster and goldenrod families of flowers.

Another varietal that has received a lot of buzz in recent years although not in the typical sense that honey is used is Manuka honey harvested in New Zealand. This particular honey’s antibacterial properties are potent enough for it to be considered as an effective wound dressing. To pick at the scab a little further, there are a number of acids that are present within honey such as formic, citric, and gluconic. Gluconic is the dominant acid and is produced by the action of bee enzymes on some of the glucose molecules within the honey. The acidity boosts the antibacterial properties of honey, as most bacteria thrive in neutral conditions. Hydrogen peroxide is also produced by the production of gluconic acid, further inhibiting the growth of bacteria.

Honey Prices & Consumption on the Rise

In recent months, reports of honey shortages worldwide in conjunction with the ongoing efforts of the American Honey Producers Association (AHPA), have resulted in a gradual rise in domestic honey prices. Thanks to the AHPA, the testing of imported honey is now mandated and has directly impacted the volume of questionable “honey” that is now being imported into the U.S. Less honey means higher price yields for reputable honey producers here in the states who no longer need to compete with so much of the illegal dumping of questionable honey from Argentina, Brazil, India, Ukraine, and Vietnam.

In early 2020, the price paid to U.S. honey producers ranged from $1.50 – $1.80 per pound, but over the last several months has risen to the $2.30 – $2.50 mark on average. These prices are representative of wholesale, bulk or barrel prices which doesn’t incur the additional expense of individual jars, labels, and marketing to retail outlets. Our current wholesale pricing for a one pound (16 oz.), shelf ready jar of varietal honey is $13. The shops that we supply retail our honey for $18 - $20 a jar and their customers anxiously await its return each season. Despite increasing our production incrementally each season, we can never produce enough honey to meet the customer demand.

If that weren’t good enough news, the National Honey Board Consumer Attitudes & Usage Study for 2021 reported significant upticks in honey usage over the past year. Data from the study cited multiple reasons as to why consumers selected honey as their most preferred sweetener. Some of the participants reasons for consuming honey included that it was ‘natural’, ‘good for the environment’, ‘organic’, ‘a source of antioxidants’, and ‘flavorful’. This growing demand for honey in the United States was further confirmed by data taken from the USDA Sugar and Sweeteners Outlook which reported that 571 million pounds of honey was consumed in 2020, a rise of about 8 percent from the previous year.

Vernal Ponds in the Landscape

“Old dark sleepy pool...
Quick unexpected frog
Goes plop! Watersplash!”
-Bashō, Japanese Haiku

Vernal ponds are temporary wetlands that provide a vital role in our environment. Although once a common element occurring within our landscapes, most vernal ponds and larger wetlands have been claimed by society. In exchange, these ecological marvels have been replaced by endless miles of road, skyscrapers, parking lots, industrial complexes and millions upon millions of rows of Zea mays. Fortunately, the tide has shifted a bit in recent years and society has begun to show a restored interest in large wetlands and their ecology. As is the case with small, pollinator patches that most everyone can implement regardless of their lot size or budget, small “pocket ponds” can be established within the landscape at a minimal cost and effort. When designed and constructed properly, a vernal pond will look and function just like their naturally occurring counterparts.

A Landscapes Kidneys

Historically, vernal ponds and larger wetlands were formed by the ebb and flow of overflowing rivers, large lakes, and vast oceans. Others were created by natural weather events such as earthquakes, lightning induced fire, and chemical reactions that occurred within the soil. In most cases vernal ponds are shallow, temporary, and are separate from streams and rivers. Because of this, most were drained and filled during the agrarian boom of the late 19th century with advancements in farming techniques and the introduction of mechanized machinery. This backfilling of wetlands continued into modern times as monoculture farming encroached upon countless acres to meet the demands of an ever-growing population that called for more and more food. Larger vernal ponds, because of their size and ability to hold water, were converted into permanent ponds or lakes by government entities and private landowners.

 In the continental U.S. alone, we have lost well over 50% of our historical 220 million wetland acres. Healthy wetlands serve as our landscapes “kidneys” by capturing, holding and filtering water. This “slow release” of surface water during heavy rain events allows time for the water to gradually seep into the surface thus recharging the groundwater supplies. In addition, the slow release reduces runoff, lessening soil erosion and further assists in filtering sediments, chemicals and nutrients within the soil. Research has shown that wetlands can trap at least 50% of dissolved phosphates and 70% of dissolved nitrates that are running off nearby lands before they have a chance to enter our nation’s waterways.

Other incentives to establishing vernal ponds within your landscape are that they provide protection from floods by holding excess rainwater during heavy rain events, they sequester soil carbon thus reducing greenhouse gases, they provide habitat for wildlife and assist in the recovery of rare and declining species, and they provide numerous education and recreational opportunities.

Just What is a Vernal Pond?

Vernal ponds, named for the relationship to the vernal or spring equinox, periodically dry up thus never contain fish. This drying up occurs annually; however, most vernal ponds will dry up during late summer and early fall as temperatures climb and frequent rainfall ceases. Because of the firm soil bed underneath and their ability to hold water, heavy rains may fill them at any time of the year even after they have dried up. It is the temporary aspect of these small wetlands that make them so valuable to the fauna that inhabit them. This wet-dry cycle prevents fish from becoming established, thus allowing critical breeding habitat for amphibians, crustaceans, and insects whom are permitted to function and fulfill their role in our ecosystems.

The key to designing and constructing a successful vernal pond is that it not only holds water but that it also dries up once in a while. In general, ninety (90) or more consecutive days of water are needed over the winter and spring months to allow insect and amphibian larvae to develop. A shallow wetland with a limited watershed, constructed in a sunny location is likely to dry up every year and may not provide enough time for salamander and frog larvae to develop. However, a deep wetland with a large watershed, placed in a shady location may never go dry. It is the balancing act of these core components that prove pivotal when designing and constructing these temporary water features.

A key principle that is often repeated by practitioners in the permaculture world is to be amongst your land, actively observing it for a period of 1-2 years before planning any permanent, land or structural features. This period of observation allows ample time to experience multiple weather events, seasonality, and plant phenology. Immediately after purchasing our farm in Marengo, we experienced a 100-year flood event in early spring and a 200-year event during the summer that completely washed out our roadway just before the newly constructed bridge that crossed Whiskey Run. This bridge, and the surrounding land I feel certain were studied, designed and performed by professional architects and development companies contracted by the county of Crawford. This, however, is just one example showing that despite man’s best efforts, in the end, Mother Nature will ALWAYS win!

By observing these events early on, it forced us to pump the brakes and slow our role a bit as our first inclination when we took possession was to immediately begin improving the area that runs alongside the creek. Fortunately, since that first year, we haven’t experienced any further catastrophic rain events (knocking on wood), but with the ever-changing climate, we are now thinking more rational and know that these events will unfortunately become more normal in the coming years.

Ecology & Wildlife Supported

In North America, approximately one-half of all frog and one-third of all salamander species rely on seasonal/temporary wetlands for their development. Wood frog (Lithobates sylvaticus), Spotted salamander (Ambystoma maculatum), and Eastern Spadefoot toad (Scaphiopus holbrookii) larvae are just a few of the amphibians that can successfully mature and emerge from these fishless habitats. In addition, vernal ponds are less likely to contain saprolegnia, a fungus that is detrimental to frog, toad, and salamander eggs and is frequently present in permanent ponds. Vernal ponds also have low numbers of Eastern newts (Notophthalmus viridescens) who prey heavily on other amphibian eggs and larvae.

Waterfowl species such as the Wood duck (Aix sponsa) and Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos) use vernal ponds extensively during their migration, consuming insects, crustaceans, and seeds that inhabit these spaces and are within close proximity. Shorebirds, like the Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius) and Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes), search out and feed on exposed mud flats that are created as water levels drop.

Additionally, reptiles such as the Eastern Box turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina) and the Eastern Garter snake (Thamnophis sirtalis sirtalis) also use vernal ponds as feeding stations as they navigate from one area to another. Numerous bat species use vernal ponds as a source of water and feed on the insects that fly over.

Mosquito, Moscato

Concerns about increased mosquito populations are valid when considering setting up a vernal pond but allow me to ease those concerns.

Yes, mosquito larvae may be present in vernal ponds, developing from egg to adult in less than a week’s time during warmer months. Have no fear though! Salamander, dragonfly, and damselfly larvae, along with many other predatory insects species such as the Water strider (Aquarius remiges) and Backswimmer (Notonectidae), all consume large quantities of developing mosquito larvae.

Adult dragonflies and multiple species of swallows patrol the sky just above the water line during the daytime, preying heavily on the adult mosquitoes that dare make an appearance. Bats frequent these same areas during the night, feeding on mosquitoes and other flying insects. With this type of balanced system, one rarely encounters adult mosquitoes near vernal ponds as their populations are kept in check by the vast array of species that utilize them as a source of food.

You have taken the time to plan. You designed and executed your vernal pond perfectly. Now all that is left to do is to pop the cork on your favorite bottle of aged and fermented grapes, pour yourself a glass, sit back and revel in what you have created!